Bright bedding plants make good standout colour features

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Provide pops of colour with bedding

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Sow winter Brassicas in trays

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It’s time to order dahlias!

Begonias can be grown in a variety of ways. Pots, borders and even indoors.

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The beauty of begonias

Try ornamental crops that taste as good as they look

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Grow beautiful and tasty crops

Salad leaves don't just have to be for summer

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Win with winter salads

Bring fresh colour from flowers and foliage to see you through the colder months

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Refresh pots for autumn

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It’s time to move shrubs

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It’s time to start sowing sunflowers

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Start sowing tomato seeds now

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Grow guaranteed frost-hardy plants!

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How to deal with woody prunings

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SOW ANNUALS

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Grow fruit and veg on the patio

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Start tender edibles

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Prune Roses

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Garden News Plants & Puzzles

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Problem Solver – Why Did My Strawberry Tree Die Suddenly?

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Sow annuals direct in borders

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Moss growing in bare spots between cobbles

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What To Do About Moss

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Sow easy blooms for summer

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Care for winter containers

Succulents are easy and very tolerant plants

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Propagate your succulents

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Plant an apple tree

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How to care for bulbs such as daffodils and tulips after flowering

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What can I do about my poorly bay trees?

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Care for ponds this autumn

A wildflower area does need some maintenance to avoid becoming a weedy patch of grasses

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How can I rewild my small plot?

Crassula perforata looks good in the autumn

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Ready for a winter’s rest!

10 ways to perk up your late-season borders!

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Planting low-flowering plants along the edge of the path

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Plant Up Path Edges

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Advice

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Garden Maintenance

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Very simply, your strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo) failed to establish a good root system. It should have easily doubled its root spread over 18 months, but it appears to have made very few, if any, new roots. Gardeners often contribute to establishment failure by poor planting technique. The main failure is through not thoroughly teasing out the rootball prior to planting. The all-too-often-heard advice of not disturbing roots is just nonsense.

Container-grown plants are well-grown at nurseries, but invariably root bound. It’s essential to thoroughly tease out the rootball to get these roots growing out into the surrounding soil, which is very different to the potting compost they’re grown in. You can’t usually do that with your fingers. I use a patio weeding tool, but a sharpened piece of bamboo, or similar, will do the job. Long, circling roots should be uncurled and pruned off at the side of the rootball.

Make the planting hole no deeper than the depth of the rootball, but three times as wide, as roots tend to grow sideways, not down.

Finally, don’t add organic matter to the planting hole as this tends to discourage rooting out into the surrounding soil. On very poor sandy soils you might incorporate some as part of the backfill (the soil dug from the hole).

Secure the tree trunk a third of the way up a tree stake, inserted diagonally at 45 degrees. This will ensure the new roots aren’t broken if the tree’s subject to high winds.

Planting too deep is the other major contributing factor. Again, the advice to plant at the depth the tree was in the pot is misguided as a lot of nursery stock is mechanically potted and is too deep to start with. This is the case with your tree, which was potted at least 5cm (2in), if not 7.5cm (3in), too deep. The tree has produced additional adventitious roots from the buried trunk to try to compensate but without success. With poor root growth, the tree has eventually come to a halt and died.

You can't beat a garden with a varying collection of choice shrubs, naturalistic perennials and self-seeders, enhanced with plenty of pots of bright plants for good measure.

The ‘front men’ in a band of colourful containers are the summer bedding stalwarts that are perfect dotted everywhere to add focus and fun to a summer garden. It’s never at the expense of useful pollinator plants – bedding is mostly too highly bred to be of natural use – but it doesn’t hurt to add some pizzazz from fab flowers that are easy-going as long as you feed them!

Use a good quality container compost that has feed already in it, usually lasting up to six weeks. After a few weeks you’ll have to supplement this every week until the end of the summer with a potassium-rich tomato food in your watering can to encourage excellent flowers.

Here are some go-to stylish classics to guarantee a bit of instant oomph!

After a cool and very dry April some of us are a bit behind with sowing and planting. But hardy annuals can always be relied on to provide maximum colour for minimum cost, and they’re perfect for new gardens where you want lots of colour quickly while other plants are getting established. They’re also ideal to fill gaps in borders. Hardy annuals can be sown early in cell trays but they don’t like root disturbance so can be sown direct where they are to grow.

This requires breaking up the soil surface into a fine tilth. Remove any annual or perennial weeds and hoe and rake the surface. If there’s time, it’s a good idea to prepare a ‘stale seedbed’, which involves raking the soil, watering it and allowing weed seeds to germinate. Once they have, hoe off the weeds and once they’ve wilted, sow as usual. This should remove weed seeds that would compete with the seedlings you sow.

If it’s difficult to get the soil surface fine, it’s possible in small areas to put a layer of multi-purpose compost on the soil and sow into this. In dry weather water the whole bed the day before sowing. Always sow in rows so that you can identify the seedlings from weeds when they grow. Space the rows from about 15-20cm (6-8in) apart, depending on the height of the plants.

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Spring is a busy season in the vegetable garden with all the sowing and planting of summer crops, but it’s also a time when you need to plan ahead for winter. Without doubt, winter brassicas, such as Brussels sprouts, winter cabbage, savoy, kale and purple sprouting broccoli, are the mainstay of winter vegetables and if you want them on your dinner plate next winter, now’s the time to get started.

The great thing about winter brassicas is they’re hardy and will withstand cold and frosty weather. Many, such as curly and Tuscan kale, can be harvested over several months from autumn until the following spring. Another benefit is they’re very healthy for us and they come at a time when there isn’t much else in the garden, making them an important addition to our diet. To get good strong plants and a decent crop in the winter, all winter brassicas need a long growing season.

The aim is to have fully developed plants by early autumn so that they’ll stand the cold winter weather. A convenient and easy way to raise brassica plants is to start them off in cell trays. This way you can control the numbers of each type and when you plant out in early summer there’s no root disturbance.

For many people, a pristine lawn is paramount but moss is always likely to appear and what you do about it often depends on where the moss is growing.

A moderate amount of moss is tolerable but if it is beginning to overwhelm the grass, then using a lawn feed containing a moss killer makes sense. And on paths where the growth of moss and algae may cause them to become slippery and dangerous, a path and patio treatment is a good idea.

But everywhere else, moss can be left alone and admired for the beautiful form of plant life it is.

Mosses and their close relatives’ liverworts are collectively known as bryophytes and are fascinating and important members of the ecosystem although their beauty is always appreciated in gardens.

They are genuine, albeit fairly simple plants. They contain the green chemical chlorophyll so are able to photosynthesise and manufacture their own food in the same way as flowering plants but they differ in two main ways.

They do not have proper roots, only simple anchoring structures called rhizoids, and most importantly they do not form flowers and seeds but reproduce by means of spores which are much simpler in form and it is the spore-containing bodies that give many kinds of moss their distinct appearance.

Mosses are usually the first plants to colonise bare surfaces and their presence encourages the accumulation of tiny particles of mineral matter while they in turn begin to provide small amounts of humus, so they are extremely important in facilitating the very earliest stages of soil formation.

The common wall-colonising moss is usually a species called the wall screw-moss, and it has an ability to establish even on almost featureless brick or stone surfaces, forming a rich, deep carpet of interconnected cushions.

Most species of moss are small - only a couple of centimetres in height - but some of the species of Polytrichum or hair-cap mosses that occur on acidic moorland can attain 8cm (3in) or more and are truly impressive.

Perennials include some of our best-loved plants and are great value, flowering every year with minimal care.

But buying enough to fill a border can be expensive so it’s worth growing some from seed.

Most can be sown throughout spring and summer but, for a chance of flowers in the first year, they must be sown in early spring.

They’re ideal if you don’t have a heated greenhouse because most don’t need extra warmth to grow once seeds have germinated.

When buying seeds look out for those listed as flowering in the first year because a few don’t bloom until plants have experienced a cold winter.

These include most foxgloves and sweet Williams and aquilegias. Among the easiest to grow for flowers the first year are agastache, achilleas, hollyhocks, delphiniums, dianthus, lavender, monarda, Iceland poppies, penstemon, platycodon, verbena and verbascum.

Most don’t need high heat to germinate and 15C (60F) is usually sufficient.

Use clean, multi-purpose compost for seed sowing and clean trays and pots to prevent fungal diseases.

Once they’ve been transplanted they should be kept free from frost but can withstand cooler temperatures than most bedding plants.

They can then be planted out in spring, before tender bedding plants.

1.  Fill trays or pots with good quality multi-purpose compost, level and firm by watering the compost thoroughly.

2.  Sow seeds thinly over compost. Sow in several pots or cells to prevent seedlings being affected by damping off.

3.  Cover seeds lightly with compost or Perlite if they like light to germinate. Label pots, including the sowing dates.

4.  Place trays in a propagator or cover with a plastic lid to maintain moisture. Keep the compost evenly moist.

## **But which ones to choose and how should you care for them?**

Now is the perfect time to order dahlia tubers, because they’re listed from January onwards. If you delay, the best varieties inevitably get snapped up, as I know to my cost! This year supplies are more limited than usual, because the Dutch harvest suffered from a wet summer, just as we did. Most dahlia tubers are commercially grown in the Netherlands and large growers supply many different bulb companies. The likelihood is you’ll be getting the same thing from the same grower, but not necessarily at the same price. So shop around to find the best deal.

Once tubers arrive, store them somewhere cool and frost-free. If you have a heated greenhouse, it’s possible to pot them up in the next month, but the tubers won’t put on much growth until the weather heats up. Don’t force them by over-heating your greenhouse, because the plants will just get leggy and spindly. If you have an unheated greenhouse or conservatory, it’s best to wait until late April before potting tubers up.

Select pots that just about accommodate one tuber, because tuber mass varies from variety to variety. Some make very small tubers; others are large and knobbly. Once the dahlias begin to shoot, be prepared to cover them on cool nights – bubble wrap is excellent. Feeding isn’t necessary at this stage. Once your dahlias show flower buds, you can apply a high-potash food such as Vitax Q4. Don’t use quick-release, nitrogen-rich feeds as they promote leafy growth at the expense of flowers.

You can take cuttings from the new growth, but always leave some stem above the tuber so it can reshoot again. Cuttings root easily in gritty compost. Many gardeners pinch back the growth tips on their potted dahlias to make their plants bushier once they reach about 30cm in height. I begin to harden dahlias off in the second half of May by placing them outside during the day. I grow 100 on my allotment and I only move them back if a frost threatens, but outdoor days toughen up the stems and leaves. Keep an eye out for slugs in the evening – dark-leafed dahlias are especially popular with gastropods!

I’m often asked whether it’s a good idea to leave dahlias in over winter. I’m not in favour of it for three reasons. Dahlias emerge later than most perennials, often not reshooting until the middle of June. Their late arrival leaves an enormous gap in the flower border and, by the time the dahlias come through, most perennial plants are way ahead. Dahlias don’t enjoy pushing up through taller plants. Left in, dahlias make large tuber masses over time but bear fewer flowers, so they’ll need dividing anyway. The third reason is that a really cold winter can see them off.

## **How to grow them in a border successfully**

The method used at Great Dixter really works. They leave gaps in the borders and fill them with spring bedding such as wallflowers, tulips and spring bulbs in autumn. These come out at the end of May, then the dahlias go in. You can also make a cutting garden. I dedicate several beds on my allotment to dahlias, but they also contain gladioli, cosmos, mallows and _Verbena bonariensis_. Their upright presence saves me having to use stakes.

The depths of winter can be a trying time, and even with the hardiest of plants, there’s a danger of compost freezing in the pot – this will be extremely bad news for them and may kill them. Wrapping pots fully with layers of bubble wrap and fleece will go a long way to help.

If you’re worried about any of your containers being a little too exposed, put them in a frost-free greenhouse or a relatively cool conservatory to protect them a little more. Remove plant saucers in winter so the soil remains free-draining, and make sure you don’t feed any winter containers outside. Dormant plants don’t need it, and any growth on other plants may be vulnerable to the chill. Plants that are still in growth, such as conifers and other evergreens, may still need a little watering over winter during dry spells, but everything else should be able to cope as it is.

If snow is forecast, it’s not nearly as devastating as a frost, which will creep into plant stems and roots and kill them. Snow, as it lays on the surface of your beds and pots, can actually be quite warming for them.

Asking someone if they grow begonias is a bit like asking them if they grow plants! The word covers such a range of different forms of flowers and leaves. There are tough begonias for bedding, colourful foliage houseplants, tasteful, small-flowered plants for summer pots and large-flowered trailing plants for hanging baskets. If you’ve always thought of begonias as just small bedding plants and never given them a second look, it’s time to discover some new and incredibly useful plants that can add interest to the garden for months.

One thing that begonias have in common is that they’ll be killed by frost and can be damaged by cold temperatures, so now’s the time when they can finally be planted out in the garden to be enjoyed for the rest of summer and into autumn.

The beauty of begonias is that they grow and flower well in cool, semi-shaded conditions, as well as being able to cope with warm and dry spells in summer (although it’s best to keep them damp if you can). Most outdoor types will start flowering now and keep going until the first frosts; the cool, damp of autumn is no threat to their performance.

In containers outside, grow begonias in a mix of three parts multi-purpose compost to one part John Innes potting compost. This mix should allow for good drainage, which is needed for best results, and the John Innes compost will provide more nutrients and prevent shrinkage of the compost through summer. Soil-based compost alone, though, will be too heavy and can become waterlogged if we have a wet summer.

In the garden, plant begonias into rich soil that has ideally had well-rotted manure or compost added to it in the previous autumn or spring. Once begonias start to flower, feed them weekly with half-strength tomato fertiliser to encourage large, healthy blooms. Water in dry spells. Leaves will start to lose their colour at the edges if they’ve been allowed to dry out, but they’ll bounce back.

These are some of the shortest begonias, growing to no more than 25-30cm (10-12in) in height. They’re incredibly drought-tolerant and if you’re looking to create a bedding display in shade that will look as good as your bedding plants in sun, then this is the best option. The key is to be generous and plant them close together, to create a mass of flowers that hides the soil. The plants don’t spread much and they lose their impact if spaced a long way apart. Plant so they’re almost touching and you’ll have a full bedding display that looks good all summer and autumn.

If you’re looking for a large-flowered bedding begonia, try ‘Lotto Mixed’, which produces flowers in red, white and soft pink.

● Begonias can be some of the most colourful trailing plants you can grow and they’re perfect if you want to create a very full ‘ball of colour’ in a basket. One of the best for this is ‘Apricot Shades Improved’, which produces a gradation of colour from orangey-red to sunny yellow, and because it flowers well in part shade you won’t have to rely on functional but uninspiring ivy as a trailing plant in shady baskets.

● Altogether more refined but also superb for a basket is begonia ‘Inferno’. True to its name, it produces flowers in fiery orange and they truly engulf the plant through summer. The blooms are slender, with long, finger-like petals, and the leaves are thin and shield-shaped. For some cooler colour in a hanging basket, try ‘Million Kisses Elegance’, which is very similar to ‘Inferno’ in growth but produces flowers that are a mix of white, cream and rosy pink shades.

● For a big show of colour in pots through leaves and flowers, ‘Glowing Embers’ is a wonderful hard-working, top-performing plant that never seems to have a bad day in summer and autumn. The shield-shaped leaves are an unusual mix of purple and dark green, with a prominent network of veins. The intense colour of the leaves contrasts well with the bright orange blooms. It will grow and flower well in shade and produces slightly darker foliage to create an even starker contrast between leaves and flowers.

Rex type begonias are enjoying a resurgence in popularity as houseplants, with their intricate patterns and colourings capturing the imagination of a new generation of gardeners. These houseplants are easy to grow. Just grow them out of direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves. Low light levels produce the best silver colouring on the leaves so try them on a north-facing windowsill.

These begonias can tolerate drying out but they need high humidity around the roots to grow best. If you’ve got a leafy begonia that has gone brown around the edges, it’s a sign the humidity in the room is too low. Place in a tray of damp gravel to raise the humidity and trim off old leaves so new ones take their place. These plants will grow best if grown in peat-based compost and need a minimum temperature of around 15C (59F), although the large-leaved ‘Silver Spirit’ can tolerate lower temperatures, so you could grow it in a cool, shady corner of the patio.

Another that can cope with lower temperatures is ‘Evening Glow’, which produces leaves with frosted grey margins and a blackcurrant centre, with attractive purple staining.

Begonia luxurians is a striking example of the wide variety of begonia species. It’s a cane-type with tall stems that can reach up to 2m (6½ft), with tiny, white, fragrant flowers and palmate foliage with long ‘finger’ leaves. They need warmth to grow tall and prefer high humidity, so nestle among other plants. Feed regularly and keep out of direct sunlight.

This is a fun job and so easy because succulents such as sedums, sempervivums and echeveria, for example, are keen to reproduce – they do most of the work for you!

They either produce little plantlets that just need potting up or are able to be propagated from their own foliage.

Succulents are defined as having fleshy leaves and keep themselves moist by carrying water in them – a characteristic often needed in their native dry, hot, sunny countries.

They’re really tolerant plants, keeping themselves pliable and happy to be moved about and disturbed – almost as if they want you to pull them apart and replant them so they can spread themselves about more easily!

Some, such as kalanchoe and aloe vera, are tender and need to be kept indoors in a frost-free place and a bit of warmth in many cases.

But the propagation process is easy – simply create or buy some good, well-draining compost and fill little pots with it.

Then it’s a case of transferring leaflets or rosettes to the pots, which often fall off into your hands readily, putting them on a windowsill and watching them do their thing!

Also be sure to repot pot-bound plants in spring.

1.  Pick off a healthy looking ‘leaf’ or a small plantlet from your succulent.

2.  Leave the offshoots out on kitchen paper to dry a little for a couple of days.

3.  Use a well-draining compost with small handfuls of Perlite and grit.

4.  Plant a few leaflets into a pot of compost and water lightly, place in a light spot.

## Get one in the ground now and look forward to fruitful days ahead!

It’s prime tree-planting season – the perfect time to put in an apple tree, and at this time of year you can plant them as bareroots or potted trees.

You’ll need a stake and tie and some compost to improve the soil. It’s also an advantage to add some RootGrow or other mycorrhizal fungus when you plant to help the tree establish well.

Apples grow best in full sun and it’s best to stay away from exposed sites or those that are especially frosty in spring to avoid damage to the early flowers.

Something else you need to consider is pollination of the flowers because most apples are not self-fertile. In urban areas this isn’t usually a problem because a tree in a neighbouring garden may fertilise your tree. Crab apples are also good pollinators for culinary apples. You could also choose a ‘family tree’ with three varieties grafted onto one. This solves the pollination problem and should provide a range of fruits.

Other things to consider are resistance to disease such as scab, which spoils the look of fruits, and when the fruit will ripen. Early apples such as ‘Discovery’ can be picked in August but don’t store well. Most apples are ready in September and can be enjoyed for a month or two. Late apples are usually not ready to eat until October but may store well right through to the New Year.

Bulbs are the arguably the easiest to plant – give them good drainage, plant them the right way up and the right depth and you’re on to a winner! But it’s the care after they’ve flowered that’s key to their continued success, year on year.

Once daffodils and tulips have finished flowering they are ready to tuck themselves away for another year, so they need some TLC to produce the same sort of displays again. Neglect them now and they’ll be weak, may fail to flower or simply not emerge at all.

Deadheading is essential, to prevent the plant putting energy into seed production. Decide if your plants need lifting and dividing, being moved elsewhere to expand and thrive. Only do this if they’re unhealthily congested and the bloom display was less good this year.

To encourage good flower and foliage growth next year, water and feed with a tomato feed to help them take up moisture and nutrients for six weeks, and leave the foliage to die down. Don’t tie up the leaves as this restricts them – leave them to die down naturally and then cut down when it’s yellow and crispy.

**1) Deadhead** – Cut down old bloom stalks, diverting energy to growth.

**2) Feed** – Feed bulbs after flowering so they can glean nutrients for next year.

**3) Water** – Water bulbs up to six weeks after flowering, so they continue to take up moisture.

**4) Leave foliage** – Leave your bulbs’ leaves for a minimum of six weeks after flowering.

Sweet potatoes are related to morning glory and convolvulus, so it’s no surprise they look good with that pedigree. Their leaves are beautifully heart-shaped and scramble fantastically as a foliage plant over the edge of a pot. Plants love lots of warmth, shelter and sun. **How to grow** If you can get hold of plants or slips now, set them outside in pot and they’ll get going from next month.

Related to Florence fennel, this is the perennial herb version, which grows very tall with equally feathery leaves and lovely flower umbels in summer. Used for its leaves, it adds a lot to fish dishes with its aniseed aroma, but it’s equally at home in either green or bronze versions in the flower border. **How to grow** Sow now, prick out and pot up plants outside. Plug plants are also available now from the herb section of garden centres.

Chard comes in a catwalk-worthy selection of colours, and is a reliable plant. It works well as a perennial, holding its form and all its stalks for months, unless you harvest them for stir fries of course. Makes a colourful border plant in rainbow hues, deep red, pink yellow or white. **How to grow** Sow now or plant plugs in full sun, but watch out for hungry slugs! Use as a medium-height border perennial with tasty

Runner beans are generally attractive plants, with lovely heart-shaped leaves and pretty flowers, but this exciting heritage climbing variety is very different. It’s got lovely salmon-pink flowers which you can eat, a departure from the usual white or red. **How to grow** There’s still time now for sowing runner beans, which you can plant out in a few weeks to romp away for the rest of summer

Sorrel is a fantastic herb anyway, adding citrussy tang to fish dishes and livening up a salad no end. The red-veined variety is particularly pretty, though, rivalling even the most beautiful heuchera! Grow one or two plants in their own patio pot just outside the back door in sun or light shade. **How to grow** Sow now, prick out and pot up plants outside. Sow every couple of weeks this and next month for a continuous harvest.

A large, dramatic border perennial with beautiful purple flowers and huge serrated leaves. Place plants in sun at the back of the border where you can almost forget it’s actually meant to be a crop! Leave some to flower for appeal, but harvest small heads for eating before they flower. **How to grow** Plant plugs out now bought from nurseries or garden centres.

**Stefan says:** You have two bay trees at the front of your house in what amount to brick containers. The house is north-facing but receives early morning and some evening sun. You go on to say the trees suffered badly in a cold snap last winter. One of them has new shoots arising from the base while the other has leaves on the branches which are now looking rather sickly. You’ve been nursing them with regular watering and feeding, but need advice on what to do next, particularly with the new shoots.

First things first. The situation is not ideal because early morning sun in cold winter weather can be very bad for plants that have frozen tissues. It causes them to thaw quickly, and this can be really damaging. In fact, rapid thawing is much more harmful than severe frost.

I suggest you cut out the stem that is obviously dead but don’t do any pruning of the new leafy shoots. In saying this, bays do have amazing powers of recovery. I remember during one bitterly cold winter many years ago and a truly intense frost, one of our trees that had been about 3.5-4.5m high was browned to a crisp. We cut it back to the stump and glory be; it’s now 3.5m-4.5m high again.

I would add something else, however. Your trees are sharing their containers with a mass of other plants, and this is not helping. Bay trees may be tough, but yours are really having to fight for their existence. I suggest you move the other plants to a different spot and top up the container with a good quality soil-based compost and a handful of slow-release granular fertiliser. Then keep the base clear of any other plants or weeds.

Chives are easy to grow. Just keep plants well watered, especially during long dry spells in summer.

A hardy annual easy to grow from seed each year, mostly grown for its leaves but you can harvest the seeds too.

A great herb to have in the garden, but remember it spreads, so is often best grown in a container.

Another herb that is easy to grow and doesn’t die off in winter so you can pick leaves all year round.

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